January 25, 2014
I am still amazed at the amount of visitors this tutorial has received since I posted it. You are from around the world and close to home. Be sure to let me know when you have finished your French Braid quilt!
Sherry
August 10, 2012
A Texas HOWDY to my new visitors from Brazil, Argentina, and Colombia.
July 30, 2012
WOW! A visitor from Riyadh, Ar Riyad, Saudi Arabia, via bellaonline! Welcome!
June 14, 2012
Hello everyone from www.quiltingboard.com! Thanks for commenting about my tutorial and all the visitors because of the comments!
Thanks to Feedjit, I have noticed new visitors from Germany, Austria, and Switzerland! Howdy from Texas! Thank you for your repeated visits to this tutorial. I hope that my directions are clear. If you have any questions, please just comment and I will get back to you as soon as I can. Sherry
January 30, 2011:
HELLO GLASGOW! I am excited that you visited my blog. My great-great-great grandfather's last name was Glasgow. I hope you visit again.
Sherry
April 7, 2011
HELLO JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA! Welcome to my corner of the world. I hope you have found something worth reading. Thank you for visiting!
Sherry
May 5, 2011
Hello Amadora, Lisboa, Portugal and Londonderry, Derry, UK! Welcome to my small corner of this great big world. I hope the instructions are clear enough for you. If you have any questions, please just ask.
Sherry
March 2, 2012
I'm getting a lot of hits from http://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f1/french-braid-pattern-t33758-5.html . Thanks to all of you. Especially kbartnick! So sweet! ;-)
I didn't think to count how many different homespuns I had to start with. Sorry.
A few years back Sam told me that he was considering retiring in 'a couple of years.' He retired April 2003, I quit August 2003. While we were both still working, and Joann's still had a store in Lake Jackson with occasional 50% off coupons, I started buying fabrics for quilts. Some I knew what pattern I wanted to use. With the homespuns...I had no idea at all. So, I purchased 1 yard cuts of each plaid that I purchased.
I've always liked the French Braid quilts. So...
Serge or zig-zag the cut edges of each uncut piece of fabric and prewash and dry. Press if necessary. Square the ends
and start cutting 4" x 10 1/2" rectangles.
Alternate your fabrics as much as possible...doesn't matter how well you do this, you still have to play around with them as you are sewing so that you don't get the same fabric across from itself. Make two stacks.
Hope you purchased lots of your solid fabric because I can't tell you how much I purchased. Sorry again. I tried everything I knew how to do to not purchase this gold fabric. I have yellow skin undertones and can't wear yellow or gold so shy away from it. For purposes of this tutorial, we are going to call this 'butterscotch.' I like butterscotch! ;o)
Cut a stack of 4" solid squares. 
Note: Because of the loosely woven quality of homespuns and the subsequent raveling issue, instead of using the normal scant 1/4" generally used in piecing quilt tops, I used a fat 1/4" seam...not quite 3/8".
Take one square and sew it to the side of one rectangle. 
Sew the butterscotch squares to one end of half of the homespun rectangles.
Be sure to cut your 4" squares...4x4...not like this... 
Sew one of your pieced rectangles to the L-shaped unit. 
Then sew an unpieced rectangle to the right of that...followed by a pieced unit. Continue until your panel measures approximately 90 1/2". 
Sew two unpieced rectangles to either side of the panel...at the top. 
Now...let's trim. I didn't have a ruler 14" wide so put two together. Cut through the points on the top, bottom, and both sides, cutting triangles off. I made five panels 14 1/2" x 91" (including seams). 14 x 90 1/2" finished. 
Take out that butterscotch fabric again. Hope you prewashed and dried it too. Square the ends and cut strips 1 1/2" wide. 
Sew ends together and cut in strips 91" long. You need 10 of them. Find the center of each panel and the center of the long edge of your sashing. Pin and pin along the long edge if you need. Sew a butterscotch strip to each side of each panel. (See why the butterscotch works so well?!) 
The top and bottom sashing is cut 1 1/2" x 16 1/2". Cut 10 of these and sew to the top and bottom of each panel. 
By this time, I've cut all my homespun and needed something between each sashed panel. First I thought more homespun...
then I thought solid black. 
Regardless, I had to purchase another piece of fabric. This time I know how much! 1 1/4 yard. I found some black and cream homespun at Hobby Lobby. Remember to serge or zig-zag the ends, prewash, and dry. Press if necessary. The black/cream sashing between the panels was cut 2 1/2" x 92". You need only 4 of these and sew them on the inside.
Note! Pay attention to the orientation of your panels. They have a definite direction. Generally French Braid quilts run in the same direction. That's what I intended. I made an oops. It was easier to take out one panel and flip it than take out two and flip them. So my panels alternate. Great design change opportunity!
The side borders are cut 3 1/2" x 93". Cut and seam 2 of these. Sew to the two side borders. Top and bottom borders are cut 4 1/2" x 94 1/2". Cut and seam two of these. Sew to top and bottom. When everything is sewn together, serge or zig-zag the outside border to prevent it from raveling away.
Closeup...
The finished quilt will be approximately 94" x 100" which fits my double pillow-top queen just perfectly!
My backing and binding will be the same gold...I mean butterscotch solid.
For you Lani!First, clean off your work area. Or...
Just push everything outta the way.
Cut a strip of 100% cotton fabric 5" x WOF (width of fabric). Width may be between 40" and 45". It's not rocket science, so don't fret it. It can also be a little narrower than 5 inches, but I certainly wouldn't cut it less than 4 1/2". (Make certain that it's colorfast. You don't want a black neck or discolored blouse.)
Sew or serge the long seam with right sides together.
Turn. See that little package of white crystals? They are a water absorbing polymer crystal. I found that itty bitty package at Hobby Lobby in the artificial flower section. It's a little over 1/4 cup, and I paid $2.99!! BUT it is enough to make four neck cooler thingies. It's sold in the floral section to be used with real flowers. I think the instructions said to put 1 - that's ONE - teaspoon in three cups of water. Let sit overnight, then arrange your flowers. You WILL be surprised how much water those little suckers LOL absorb. I don't know what brand these are. One brand found on the internet is Polysorb. You can also check in garden/nursery departments of your favorite store. Another brand of this stuff is sold to be added to potting soil.
WOW That's at 7:30 p.m.! The thermometer is on the screen porch.
Back to the neck thingie. Fold it in half. Measure in 6" from the fold and mark each side with a pin. (Don't pin all the way across.)
Sew straight across at only one pin.
Measure 1-1/2 (one and one-half) teaspoons of the crystals and pour into the center of the tube. Shake them down to the stitching line.
Sew across the thingie at the other pin.
If you want, cut the ends at an angle, turn the raw edge in, and stitch down.
I hope you can see how plump the blue thingie is. 
It's the same size tube and 12" section with the same amount of crystals. Don't put in more crystals than called for. 'They' say it gets oozie and slimy feeling. Use, care, and cleaning:Use: Prior to use, soak 15 - 30 minutes. No longer. Do not put in refrigerator or freezer. Please don't warm it in the microwave unless the manufacturer of your crystals states that it's okie dokie. When you let it dry out, it will return to some state of crunchy crystals. I don't know 'cause I've wet mine each day since it was made. Overnight, it did get a bit thinner. To 'regenerate,' soak for 1-5 minutes...that should be enough. Care: After use, hang. Do not just lay it on the counter. Dehydrate to store. Just let it hang out at room temperature. As the day drags on and the thingie starts to dry out, pour a little water over it. It will absorb your sweat and your body odor if it dries out. So, keep it wet.Cleaning: Wash very quickly by hand. Really, just get your hands soapy and wash up and down the thingie. Rinse quickly. Do NOT put it in your washing machine! I've read that the crystals will eventually lose their ability to absorb water. Do not pour the crystals down your toilet! Dispose in the garbage.I made one for Mama to wear in the garden. Actually, I made it for baby brother who works out in the heat. On my way over to the garden Monday morning, I thought about Mama in the garden and gave it to her. I'll give the one I made for the tutorial to baby brother. Hmmm...That means I also need to make one for younger brother the truckdriver. That's the last of my crystals...
So, you want to make your very own, one of a kind, "designer" apron? This is a great stash buster pattern! 
First, you need a pattern. I have a one-piece apron that I just placed on top of my fabric. Carefully cut around it. By 'carefully,' I mean, don't cut your apron by mistake! If you don't already have an apron like this, you can find several free patterns on the internet like this one:
http://etherwork.net/ejmtph/sew/apron.html
Go through your stash and pull out one piece of fabric large enough for the apron body. Gather some coordinating, complimentary, or surprise fabrics. Cut the apron out, but ignore the rest of their instructions and follow mine now. ;o) Just remember, this ain't rocket science. The width of the ruffle doesn't have to be exact. I suggest not making it too full...be a little 'cheap' with it.
Cut 1 Bib ruffle = 4" deep x 1 1/2 times the width of the bib. (For the apron pattern in the above link, the bib ruffle will be about 13" wide.) Don't get it too wide or you'll have too much ruffle.
Cut 3 Bottom ruffles out of different fabrics = 4" deep x 1 1/2 times the width of the apron.
Cut 2 Ties = 3" x 42"
Cut 1 Neck band = 3" x 22"
Don't get bogged down with the width of the apron. If you have the full 42-44" of fabric, and you need the width, cut your apron that large. If you are working with a remant, go narrower. Adjust the width of the ruffles according. Just remember, the more ruffling, the more work you have to do!
Now that you have everything cut, if you have a serger, serge all edges on the apron and the ruffles (not the ties or neck band). With all ruffle edges serged, guess what? You don't have to hem the ruffles! Yeah! (Sorry. If you don't have a serger, start hemming ALL those edges - except the ties and neck band.) After serging the ruffle edges, pick one long edge as the top and run a row of basting stitches. Be sure to leave thread tails so that you can gather them.
Turn under the serged edge at the bib top only and sew 1/4 - 3/8" from the folded edge.
Fold the bib top in half and put a pin there. Fold the bib ruffle in half and pin it to the top center front of the bib.
Pull your gathering threads. Pin both ends of the ruffle on top of the bib. Sew the ruffle to the bib.
Match the edge of the bib with the edge of the ruffle.
Fold as one and turn the serged edge to the back and stitch it down. (If you had to hem everything, just lay the ruffle end even with the edge of the apron and stitch down.)
Continue stitching the entire 'arm' area.
Find the center front of the bottom of your apron and the center of a long ruffle. Pin and sew the same as for the bib. Pick up your second ruffle, find centers, slightly overlap to top edge of the first ruffle, gather and sew it down. Follow the same procedure with the third ruffle.
Line up the ruffle edges with the side of the apron.
Turn under 1/4 - 3/8" and sew through all the layers. (If it's all hemmed, just line up the edges of the ruffles with the apron edge and sew them together.)
Ties and neck band - Fold each in half lengthwise. With 1/4" seams, sew across one short section then down the long raw edges making a tube. Using a skewer or your favorite turning trick, turn the ties and band. Sew each to the apron in its appropriate place. Leave one end of the neck band free.
Cut 1" piece of velcro. Sew one side to the back of the apron. (Yeah, go ahead and sew through the ruffle - it won't be noticeable.) Adjust the neck band to suit you and sew the other piece of velcro to the band.
Try your new designer apron on for size and GO COOK SOMETHING GOOD!
I am going to make a Cannoli Pie. Photos to follow...
and start cutting 4" x 10 1/2" rectangles.
Alternate your fabrics as much as possible...doesn't matter how well you do this, you still have to play around with them as you are sewing so that you don't get the same fabric across from itself. Make two stacks.
Hope you purchased lots of your solid fabric because I can't tell you how much I purchased. Sorry again. I tried everything I knew how to do to not purchase this gold fabric. I have yellow skin undertones and can't wear yellow or gold so shy away from it. For purposes of this tutorial, we are going to call this 'butterscotch.' I like butterscotch! ;o)
Note: Because of the loosely woven quality of homespuns and the subsequent raveling issue, instead of using the normal scant 1/4" generally used in piecing quilt tops, I used a fat 1/4" seam...not quite 3/8".
Sew the butterscotch squares to one end of half of the homespun rectangles.
Be sure to cut your 4" squares...4x4...not like this... 
Sew one of your pieced rectangles to the L-shaped unit. 
Then sew an unpieced rectangle to the right of that...followed by a pieced unit. Continue until your panel measures approximately 90 1/2". 
Sew two unpieced rectangles to either side of the panel...at the top. 
Now...let's trim. I didn't have a ruler 14" wide so put two together. Cut through the points on the top, bottom, and both sides, cutting triangles off. I made five panels 14 1/2" x 91" (including seams). 14 x 90 1/2" finished. 
Take out that butterscotch fabric again. Hope you prewashed and dried it too. Square the ends and cut strips 1 1/2" wide. 
Sew ends together and cut in strips 91" long. You need 10 of them. Find the center of each panel and the center of the long edge of your sashing. Pin and pin along the long edge if you need. Sew a butterscotch strip to each side of each panel. (See why the butterscotch works so well?!) 
The top and bottom sashing is cut 1 1/2" x 16 1/2". Cut 10 of these and sew to the top and bottom of each panel. 
By this time, I've cut all my homespun and needed something between each sashed panel. First I thought more homespun...
then I thought solid black. 
Regardless, I had to purchase another piece of fabric. This time I know how much! 1 1/4 yard. I found some black and cream homespun at Hobby Lobby. Remember to serge or zig-zag the ends, prewash, and dry. Press if necessary. The black/cream sashing between the panels was cut 2 1/2" x 92". You need only 4 of these and sew them on the inside.
Closeup...
The finished quilt will be approximately 94" x 100" which fits my double pillow-top queen just perfectly!
